Flicker Checker

Find the flicker-free shutter speeds and angles for your frame rate and local mains frequency (50 Hz / 60 Hz).

Input

Power line frequency
Frame rate (FPS)
23.976 24 fps 120

Results

Shutter angle
Shutter speed

How the Flicker Checker Works

Why Does Flicker Happen?

Most artificial light sources — fluorescent tubes, LED panels, HMI lights — are powered by AC electricity and therefore pulse at twice the mains frequency: 100 times per second in Europe (50 Hz grid) and 120 times per second in the USA (60 Hz grid). To the naked eye this is invisible, but a camera can expose a frame during a darker pulse, a brighter pulse, or anything in between — which shows up as flickering banding or brightness variation in the footage.

The Fix: Sync Your Shutter to the Light Cycle

If each frame's exposure time is an exact multiple of the light cycle, the camera always captures the same average brightness — no flicker. For a 50 Hz grid (light cycle = 1/100 s), the safe shutter speeds are 1/25, 1/50, 1/100. For a 60 Hz grid (cycle = 1/120 s): 1/30, 1/60, 1/120.

The Shutter Angle Constraint

The shutter time can never exceed one full frame (360°). So as FPS rises, slower safe shutters drop out. At 72 fps with a 50 Hz grid, 1/25 and 1/50 would both require angles above 360° — only 1/100 remains valid. At 120 fps the frame time (1/120 s ≈ 8.3 ms) is shorter than even 1/100 s (10 ms), so no standard flicker-free shutter is possible — consider a continuous, flicker-free light source instead.

Practical Tips

In Europe / Asia / Australia: shoot at 25 or 50 fps. Use 1/50 or 1/100 shutter.

In the USA / Canada / Japan (60 Hz): shoot at 30 or 60 fps. Use 1/60 or 1/120 shutter.

At 24 fps (cinema): in a 50 Hz country a 1/50 shutter gives 172.8° — very close to 180° and flicker-free.

LED and HMI lights: some have a flicker-free mode (high-frequency ballast or DC power). Check the specs.